We decided to break up the 22 hour journey from Mancora to Lima with a stop in Chiclayo. While there isn’t a huge amount to see and do in the dusty town we had heard from some other travellers about a couple of museums housing pre-Incan artefacts that were supposedly worth a visit. Our overnight bus arrived at 4am and thankfully we had decided to catch the first class company ‘Oltursa’ who happened to have a VIP salon that the security guard let us bunker down in for a couple of hours until the sun came up. Much more cosy that the cold tiled floors we were anticipating!
We caught a local collective to the nearby town of Lambayeque and killed time wandering around looking for breakfast before the museums opened at 9am. Its times like these that we found ourselves wishing Central and South America had a café culture as there was basically nothing open.

The first museum we visited was the Museo Arqueologico Nacional Brüning. Tthe collection includes metal, ceramic and textile artifacts from the region’s pre-Inca civilizations, such as the Mochica (Moche), Wari Lambayeque and Chimu cultures and even though we were initially going to give it a miss Im actually glad we went as it was an interesting way to spend an hour.

The second museum called the Museo Tumbas Reales de Sípan houses a really impressive collection of artefacts found in the tomb of the Mochica government leader, the Lord of Sipan. We weren’t allowed to take cameras or phones inside this museum but to give you an idea of the scale and riches inside archaeologists have compared the find with that of Tutankhamen’s grave in Egypt. It was crazy seeing the richness of the jewels found with him but also amazing to see the intracacies of the detail in the jewellery and pottery.
Miraflores coastline
Park of love sculpture
My love!
Back at the bus station we managed to weasel our way back into the VIP salon to wait for our next overnight bus to Lima. 12 hours later we arrived at the hostel only to find that I had actually booked us for the 26th of next month! Whoops! We were both pretty tired and Ty had his unimpressed face on so it was a good thing they had two dorm beds left which we were able to take. Our first impression of Lima was that it was COLD! After some warming showers we both pulled out all of our winter clothes and rugged up for a walk around the suburb of Miraflores. Sitting on the waterfront promenade with hot chocolates in our hands we watched the crazy surfers below, deciding that our surfing days on this trip were definitely over. It was way too fricking cold for that!

Checking out the ‘Park of Love’ we ended up having a big chat with one of the Peruvian street hawkers and a really lovely American lady. For once my gluten-free-ness came in as a handy excuse as the guy was trying to sell bottle openers which we had no intention of buying.

Lima, and Peru in general, is famous for its ceviche and I had been really looking forward to eating some when we got to Miraflores but for me ceviche is a warm weather food, and the cold made me not want to eat it.

We hung out at the hostel that night finishing off the bottle of rum we had been carrying with us and playing a feisty game of UNO before crashing out with about 20 layers of clothes on for bed.

Ty has been travelling with just a pair of lightweight travel pants and after the stories we have been hearing from other travellers on their way north about the cold temperatures they have encountered, and the frosty welcome Lima had given us we popped down to the department store to buy him a pair of jeans before we headed to the station for our next bus south.

Next stop: Huachachina

Leave a Reply.